Prevent burned traces from happening again:

If you just have switches on your layout (no 19.5 degree cross-overs) then do the following:

 

        -  Shorten slider screws so they won't make contact with rail heads as the engine goes through switches or cross-overs.

        -  Add fuse between front and rear engine sets as additional protection (not required but recommended)

 

 

If you have 19.5 degree cross-overs then do one or both of the following steps (in addition to the above two):

   

        -  Modify the 19.5 degree cross-over

            and/or

        -  Modify the slider shoes

        -  Add shims to driver axles to reduce side to side motion of frame on axles

 

 

 

 

 

Slider Screws causing shorts on Switches & Cross-overs:

There is also a risk of the slider screw sticking down too far and making contact with the top of the crossover & switch rails that pass under the engine and is the most frequent cause for damaged traces.

To prevent this, you will want to first ensure each screw is fully screwed in place.  Next, the spacing between the switch/crossover rail heads and each slider screw should be checked.  Even when fully screwed in place, you may find variations and some able to make contact or with very little safety margin between the screw head and the top of the rail. 

On all of my engines I filed the screw head down almost flat, leaving just enough of the original screw slot to allow use with a screw driver.  Doing this alone will add quite a bit to the safety margin and may be all you need to do.  You may also find that the other end of the slider screw will need to be filed down to allow it to screw further into engine.

Slider shoes causing shorts on Cross-overs:

Bench testing revealed an issue with shorting 19.5 degree crossovers and the cause to be two-fold (with a possible third issue):  (please note that the issue of crossover shorts is limited to the 19.5 deg crossover (by Aristocraft), 30 deg and 90 deg versions should not have this issue.

 

• The side to side play of the frame on the axles is so great, it allows the sliders to swing out over the opposing rails in the cross-over which leads to a short. 

• The sliders themselves are too wide and stick out too far on the side

• Possible issue with power slider screws stick down too far (see Slider Screw Shorts below)

 

Here are some photos of the overlap I'm talking about.  In the photo of the crossover, the most critical short points are circled in yellow.  It should be noted however, the inside of the slider can also short on the inside cross-over rails.

 

	With frame swung to the left.	With frame swung to the right. (there is a risk of shorting on the inside rails)

 

 

 

TO PREVENT SLIDERS FROM SHORTING ON THE 19.5 CROSS-OVERS:

 

You can either:

 

Option 1:  Modify the engine as seen immediately below by modifying the sliders and adding nylon axle shims (and possibly adding fuses)

 

     and/or

 

Option 2:  Modify the cross-over.  See 19.5 Degree crossover modification to eliminate the risk of electrical shorts from engine power pickup sliders 

 

 

 

 

Option 1:  (To fix 19.5 degree cross-over shorts)

MODIFYING THE ENGINE: (Shimming the Axles & Reducing Slider Width)

 

 

Shimming the Axles: (Step 1 of 2)

 

First, I added nylon washers purchased at Home Depot on both sides of the first and fourth axles on both the front and rear engine sets. (total of 8 washers.)  This significantly reduced the side to side play of each engine set and reduced how far over the slider would reach to the opposing rails.  To fit on the axle, I cut a pie shaped section out so it could be pressed on from behind and snap on.

 

 

Here are the washers installed. 

 

 

(The engines have been tested on tight 8ft diameter curves so shimming the axles with nylon washers should not limiting your ability to run on tight curves.)

 

 

 

Reducing slider width:  (Step 2 of 2)

 

The other part I found necessary, was to grind down the sides of the sliders to 7mm.  In my cause I used the grinding wheel and wire wheel on my bench grinder. 

 

(Note: that reducing the width will make the outer edge slightly more susceptible to dipping in the frogs of #6 switches.  This may happen if the slider is too far out of alignment/level .  See Sliders getting caught in switch frogs for more info)

 

 

 

 

Option 2:  (To fix 19.5 degree cross-over shorts)

MODIFYING THE 19.5 CROSS-OVER

 

        -   See 19.5 Degree crossover modification to eliminate the risk of electrical shorts from engine power pickup sliders 

 

 

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07/15/2007   MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Adding fuses between front and rear engine power pickup wires
to protect from short damage:

OPTION 1:

As a preventive measure to protect the rear power distribution board traces from burnout, I added two fuses one in each power pickup wire between the front and rear engine sets. 

I purchased a pair of posi-lock fuse holders (http://www.posi-lock.com/newproducts.html) and added a 3amp fuse.  This install was easy and simple to accomplish and only required that you remove the front engine set.  

 

 

In testing, I found the power traces most susceptible to damage would handle ~4amps max before visible damage occurred and that a 3amp fuse provided the right level of protection. 

OPTION 2:

Another option is to sever the power pickup wire connections before going into the front of the rear engine set and re-route them to the back of the engine where the wires connect to the rear connection of the rear engine set.  Doing this would allow the use of a much larger fuse (5amp+) as the power traces from the rear end of the board are more robust and can handle more current safely.  I would still locate the fuse holders in the same place for easy access.  Being able to use a higher amp fuse may reduce the likelihood of the fuse actually blowing.

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08/03/2006   MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Wheel power pickups modification:  (Short potential)

You may want to inspect the wheel power pickups to ensure the bare wires from the brushes don't make contact with the metal frame.  This could possibly lead to a short with the two pin component that is bolted to the inside top of the rear portion of the frame.  (or through other accidentally pinched wires.)  Because of the coating on the frame, the chance of an actual short occurring is slim, but it's a possibility.

Below is a picture of one of these wires pinched between the wheel pickup assembly and the frame. 

 

To eliminate this as a possible problem, I removed each wheel power pickup and applied a layer of electrical tape on top of the wires to ensure they stayed electrically insulated from the frame above.  (Do note that I have not had any shorts as a result of this condition, this was just as a precaution.)

 

Before: Wires exposed	After: Wires covered with strips of electrical tape

 

 

 

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08/03/2006   MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Firebox light frame modification: (Short potential)

In one of the early test runs of the engine on my test track I observed a bright flash at the rear of the conductor's side of the firebox.   

 

A short time later I noticed the conductor side firebox light was coming on with the track power before I performed the DCS startup.  (This indicated that light circuit was no longer able to be controlled by the DCS electronics.)  After some additional inspection I discovered the cause... 

 

The frame used to support and supply power to the side firebox lights can make contact with the metal frame of the engine creating a short between the firebox light circuit and the uninsulated two pin component.  (The distance between the bottom of the firebox bracket from the bottom of the firebox on the boiler shell is 13mm.  The height of the frame is 14mm and the frame bottom sits flush with the bottom of the firebox on the boiler shell... which means contact is possible with the 1mm overlap)

 

To ensure a firebox light bracket to frame short can never happen again, I applied a layer of electrical tape to the frame where it slides next to the firebox light frames.  (Pictured below) 

 

Also pictured is the the two pin component (with the red and yellow wires) which I chose to electrically isolate from the frame. (See Electrically Isolating the two pin component from the frame section below).

 

 

 

Here is a video of a damaged firebox light circuit, notice one of the two rear white firebox lights is already blown from over-voltage of seeing direct track power.

                      

   -  Video - 0:56 mins  -  Firebox light circuit issue

                   - 7MB/1000kbs

 

 

 

 

 

In my case, this engine's main electronics board needed replacement in order to correct the damaged lighting circuit. 

 

Keep in mind the key issue here is the uninsulated two pin component.  If you insulate the two pin component, you eliminate the possibility of those two circuits shorting.. however I still feel the application of electrical tape to the frame is still a good idea to ensure an accidental short can never happen again.

 

 

 

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09/03/2006   MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Electrically Isolating the two pin component from the frame    - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

The two pin component that is mounted to the frame didn't have electrical insulators provided to keep it from passing power to the frame.  

For illustration: the two pin component is smaller component with the red and yellow wires going to it.  

I recommend this be isolated by either adding an insulator (Example:  NTE422 (TO220 style) insulator kit) or by removing it off the frame and heat shrinking it and the connector together.  My testing has shown the component doesn't generate enough heat to require being heat-sinked to the frame. 

				After you are done reassembling, you will want to check for continuity with a voltmeter. (note that the screw is not in place in this photo)

 

The isolator kits can be ordered from Allied Electronics (Allied part # 935-9422).   Each pack has two insulators and washers.

https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=935-9422&SEARCH=nte422&n=&MPN=NTE422&DESC=NTE422

 

 

 

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09/22/06    (Updated 4/3/17)H One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

 

MTH Big Boy - No Flags:

I preferred the look of the engine without the green flags so I removed them. 

To remove, cut the tab under the pilot with cutting pliers and push from under the engine with the tip of a Phillips screw driver and carefully work it out. 

I then cut the flag off the top of the post, sanded and painted to retain the post without the flag:

 

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03/04/2009    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Power Pickup Sliders getting caught in switch frogs (Particularly #6 switches)

For those having problems with their engine having a slider that dips in the frog which causes the engine get hung up or jerk, you will need to modify the slider just a bit. 

In some cases, the slider screw hole may not be drilled perfectly straight up and down.  This results in the slider being tilted a bit front to back.  With the one end of the slider tilted down, that end will have a tendency to drop in the frog as it passes over and get hung up. 

The solution I came up with for this was to take and bend the slider pad to compensate and ensure the slider sits level on the track.

I first check to see if the slider is level front to back.  (The one in the photo here is already level)

Based on which end is dipped down, I know which way to bend the slider head to compensate. 

One way to fix is to take the slider off the engine and then use two pairs of pliers to bend the slider shoe pad so it is oriented correctly against the rail.   After you bend, reinstall it and check.  You may have to repeat these steps a few times to get it just right.  To speed this process you may be able to bend the slider with it on the engine by hand.

 

The other thing to check for is to make sure the outside edge of the slider is level as well.  If the outside end is dipped too far down it can increase the chances of it getting caught as well.  To tell if it's level, put the engine on it's side and look down the bottom of the drivers and see how the slider looks in comparison.  The slider inner to outer level should match.

This is level	This isn't.

 

If you still have a slider getting caught in a #6 switch frog, it's probably with the engine entering the main from the siding.  (see photos below)  If this occurs, you will need to take (likely with a pair of pliers) and bend the end of the slider that's dipping down in frog out just a tad.  So in this case below, the left side of the photo is the front of the engine, you need to make the front end of the slider bend out further to the left some. (Assuming the slider is already flat and level from the checks above).  Don't bend it too much and remember you are bending it out on the horizontal axis, you want to keep it flat and level.   Also, make sure the slider screw is fairly secure in the hole you may need to tighten it down some.

(Note: you may read where some have gone with the method of bending the outside edge of the slider way up to prevent it from getting caught.  This is not necessary if you go through these steps noted above.  If it's getting caught it's just out of adjustment by likely just a little bit.)

 

Once you have your sliders set right they will work reliably from then on, it's just a matter of getting any trouble sliders properly set which really doesn't take too much time.

 

 

 

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07/06/2008    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Drive line binding - not running smooth:     - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

Have found this on some engines with varying degrees and is not easy to correct.  I believe the main cause is due to side rod holes drilled off-center causing binding.  (I originally believed this was due to driver quartering issues)   The good way to tell that your engine has this problem is that it will not run smooth at very slow speeds (1-2 smph) and will run worse in one direction than the other. 

 

Here is an example of my MTH Big Boy (#3) with serious drive line binding due to driver quartering issues:  (It should be noted that while some engines do have some mild hesitation/binding, this was so far a one of a kind example)

www.rayman4449.com/Big_Boy_3.wmv - 9mb (please excuse the thumping noise, it was a problem with the tape)

 

The best first solution would be to determine which rods may be out of spec and try to replace them.  They dont have to be out of spec by much to cause a problem so it isn't easy to see just by casual observation.  You could attempt to oval out the side rods with a drill but must use caution as it can cause binding in opposite direction due to increased slack.

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07/06/2008    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Boiler cracks from the marker light screw holes:

Something to watch for is cracks from the marker light holes.

I believe there are two factors:

    - Marker light screw hole being drilled too small causing the screw to split the plastic

    - Pressure being applied to the marker light if tipped on an angle on it's side.

My solution to ensure this doesn't happen on any other engines has been to check the tightness of the screw by trying to back them out.  If they were really snug I used a Dremel and drill bit and widened out the hole so it wasn't so tight.  Next, use caution when working on the engine and don't put them under too much pressure.  

 

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07/26/2008   MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Break shoes facing the wrong direction:      - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

I noticed early on that the brake shoes between the 2nd and 3rd  &  3rd and 4th sets of drivers on both engine sets (on both sides) were facing the wrong direction.  After some comparisons, I found the factory installed brake shoes that were for a different MTH engine.  What is needed are 4 of each of these from their One Gauge Challenger:

• Brake Shoe non-slider (right side) -  (Need  a qty of 4 of this brake shoe)

• Brake Shoe non-slider (left side) -   (Need a qty of 4 of this brake shoe)

Please contact me if you need to order these for your engines at:

 

 

Photo of the backwards GS-4 shoes:

Picture of the correct Challenger versions installed on the Big Boy:

Photos of the needed brake shoe needed off the Challenger. (non-slider):

 

 

 

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05/17/05     MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

MTH Challenger/Big Boy - G scale Kadee #789 coupler added to the Front: 

The Challenger & Big Boy both come with a non-functioning #1 scale size coupler on the front.  Not an issue unless you plan to do some sort of lash-up behind another engine or consist. 

After a bit of modifying I was able to install a Kadee #789 on the front and eliminate the fake one.

 

Modifications:

Installed:

 

To accomplish this, you need to pull the pin holding the coupler assembly in place.  (from the bottom)  It is very difficult to remove and had to slowly work it out with a twisting motion.

Once out, the Kadee #789 can be modified with a dremel and a file to drill a new hole and file it down so it fits through the front opening. 

The Kadee uncoupler arm needs to be cut off smooth with the bottom of the coupler. 

One benefit from this modification is the coupler assembly is now tight enough to keep from working it's way open after running the engine a while.

 

 

 

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01/11/05     MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Challenger/Big Boy Drawbar upgrade:    - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

I found that trying to back heavy, long trains up a steep grade would put cause the factory drawbar to tip down allowing the tender-drawbar peg to come out of the drawbar.  To eliminate this issue and also shorten the distance between the engine and tender I made this custom drawbar out of scrap steel.

I replaced the stock spring with a few of the plastic washers that were included in the Kadee 881 adapter package.  By using the washers instead of a spring, they help hold the drawbar in place when under heavy load backing up. 

Here is the result. 

Drill bit sizes used:

 

 

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08/21/04   MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

 

Tender plug problem & repair:     - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

See this link:  Tender plug repair

 

 

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08/21/04    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

 

Charging the engine's PS2 on-board battery:    - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

See this link:  Charging engine PS2 battery

 

 

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03/13/2011    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Sound file update:  (Corrects S01 softkey short whistle sound)     - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

The MTH Big Boys as delivered from the factory had an incorrect sound for the S01 soft-key option.  MTH has provided an updated file and now has it posted to their website for download.

 

 

See file located at:   http://www.mthtrains.com/70-3009-1

 

Or download at this link:  MTH Big Boy sound file - w/S01 update (11/01/2010)

 

 

 

Example of the incorrect S01 sound: (short whistle)

 

 

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07/21/11    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Polarity switch location:      - (Applied to 2006 MTH One Gauge Big Boy)

This is the location of the polarity switch on the Big Boy.

 

 

 

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11/28/19

Smoking Whistle:  Instructions on how to activate:

Do the following steps to activating the smoking whistle:

 

Note:  If your DCS Remote and/or TIU has DCS software version of 3.11 or lower(older), these softkeys below will NOT appear on the remote screen.  You must be using DCS v4.00 or higher in order to see the softkeys.  Once you update Remote & TIU with updated version, you will need to delete engine from remote and re-add to see the softkeys.  If your engine does not come with a smoking whistle, FSW will not be displayed on your remote (SPW may be displayed if engine has playable whistle feature).

 

 

    Using DCS Remote:

       - Step 1:  Add 6 drops of smoke fluid into the whistle opening. (If needed)

       - Step 2a:  Press "S2" (FSW) button - (This turns on the smoke whistle heater) 

                        - (Note:  You may need to scroll the softkey list with "S5" button to display SPW and FSW labels)

       - Step 2b:  Turn thumbwheel down - (This updates the screen to confirm FSW is highlighted/activated)

       - Step 3a:  Press "S1" (SPW) button - (This turns on the Whistle Quill feature)

       - Step 3b:  Turn thumbwheel down - (This updates the screen to confirm SPW is highlighted/activated)

       - Step 4:  Rotate the thumbwheel up to activate/increase whistle (Three steps of quill are available).  Rotate thumbwheel down to deactivate/decrease whistle.

                        - (Note:  If you see smoke coming out the bottom of the boiler and not the top, blow in the top of the whistle hole to clear any fluid bubbles and retry)

 

               

Step 1:	Step 2a:	Step 2b:	Step 3a:	Step 3b:	Step 4:

 

    Using WIU w/Wifi and DCS App:

- Step 1:  Add 6 drops of smoke fluid into the whistle opening. (If needed)

- Step 2:  Go to 3rd screen on DCS App and scroll down and activate "Playable Whistle"

- Step 3:  Activate "Whistle Smoke"

- Step 4:  Go back to main engine control screen with speed dial and pull on the whistle cord and smoke will come out the whistle.

 

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08/13/19    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Packing - 2015/2017/2018 Models:     

 

See below for packaging reference photos. 

***It is CRITICAL that all bolts and posts be used when shipping this engine!  Do not discard or attempt to ship without the original mounting hardware!***w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

 

***Click this link for photos of 2015/2017/2018 packaging***

 

 

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04/21/22    MTH One Gauge Big Boy w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

Packing - 2020/2022 Models:   

 

See below for packaging reference photos. 

***It is CRITICAL that all bolts and posts be used when shipping this engine!  Do not discard or attempt to ship without the original mounting hardware!***w/Protosound 2 - Protosound 3 - DCS - 70-3009-1  - 70-3026-1

 

***Click this link for photos of 2020/2022 packaging***

 

 

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